As I write these words, the feeling settles into me.
Freedom…
I am free, free to express, free to be, free to speak my heart and free to love, free beyond all and everything.
Such freedom is found within. When we know what is our joy, what fills us, what brings a smile as wide as the sun to you. One of these things for me is - empty sunrise waves, delicious lush big open faces of ocean that I careen and dance upon, that I am in complete flow and connection as the sun comes up to warm the day.
Surfing is my greatest pleasure. For me surfing is my source, my love, my release, being in the ocean, my connection to this huge life-force brings me back to my centre, cleanses my energy of agitation, clears my thoughts, and feeds my soul.
I only dreamed before of being able to do what I do now at the age of 46, Never in my 20’s or 30’s had I thought I would have the courage to ride waves way bigger than me, have the bravado to paddle out into a lineup of well seasoned and salty locals and stand in my strength, confidence and ability.
Many times I have been confronted, I just shrug and let my surfing do the talking. And then, those salty locals started talking to me.
This is my joy, this is my freedom, this is my feeling of being free. I am here, and no-one can take it away from me now.
The ocean saved me.
Saved me from myself, saved me from a life not yet lived.
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